Dad is leaving the Southern Hemisphere just in time to avoid the scathing hot apocalyptic fury predicted for Friday, December 21st, 2012 by the Mayans to commemorate The End of the Great Cycle of the Long Count. Happy B’ak’tun 14, Everybody!
We are *so proud of you for making this journey. From our perspective, you’ve been at the top our whole lives. Be safe coming down and we’ll see you very soon!
Love,
Ryan, Keith, & Clay
Rob just left a very windy dispatch. It clears up after the first 45 seconds. Big wind!
If you’re extra-curious, here’s a random youtube video from 2010 of an american giving a quick tour of the “tent city” at Plaza Argentina.
Day 9: Rest and acclimatization at Base Camp. We continue to build upon our acclimatization today with a hike outside of camp. We rest in the afternoon and make the final preparations for our move to Camp 1.* Tuesday, December 11th, 2012
* Itinerary summary from RMI Guides
Here’s a quick map that Clay put together tracking the camps between Mendoza, Argentina (Day 3) and Plaza Argentina/Base Camp (Day 6)…
Rob checked in this evening… he says the sun is out and the sky is clear, it’s just very windy. Oh, and he reports that they are eating well!
Day 5: We continue towards Base Camp as the Vacas Valley opens up and the surrounding mountains grow taller. We are greeted by impressive views of the Eastern Face of Aconcagua as we reach our second night’s camp at Casa de Piedra (10,550′).* Friday, December 7th, 2012
here’s a youtube video of mules racing towards casa de piedra where the team is camping tonight…
here’s a nice view of the summit in the distance in another sweet random youtube video…
* Itinerary summary from RMI Guides
This is Rob’s second climb with RMI lead guide JJ Justman. They successfully summited Mt Elbrus together this past summer.
About JJ from RMI Guides
JJ Justman has been a Professional Mountain Guide since 1995 and began working with RMI in 1998. Since then, he has developed a passion for guiding climbers on the world’s highest peaks from South America to Nepal. JJ will always claim his second home as Mendoza, Argentina where he has guided over 15 expeditions on Aconcagua and continues to perfect his Argentine Tango. However, JJ will always be found on Mount Rainier, his favorite mountain all summer long.
JJ’s supporting guide is Geoff Schellens who is making his 3rd expedition up Aconcagua this trip.
About Geoff from RMI Guides
Geoff Schellens grew up in Norwich,Vermont, where his introduction to climbing at the age of 14 led him to develop a strong connection with the outdoors and the local Green Mountains. Pursuing this passion, Geoff attained his undergraduate degree from Prescott College, where he studied Adventure Education with an emphasis on rock and alpine climbing, and minored in environmental studies and photography. Following work as an instructor for Outward Bound and a season rock guiding in Acadia, Maine, Geoff began guiding for RMI in 2009 where he is currently a Lead Guide. He is also a certified Rock Guide by the American Mountain Guides Association. Above his ascents with RMI to Alaska, Mexico, Ecuador, and Argentina, Geoff has recently returned from an expedition to Tibet with fellow RMI guides where he summited Shisha Pangma – one of the world’s fourteen 8000m+ peaks. When not climbing, Geoff enjoys skiing, biking, and traveling.
Rob flew this route today. He had a tremendous opportunity to view the peak out the port side window of his aircraft.
Check out this completely relevant excerpt from the 1942 Disney feature “Saludos Amigos”. Pedro is a determined mail plane who crosses the Andes from Santiago, Chile to Mendoza, Argentina past a terrifying depiction of Aconcagua.
The script is awesome:
“Pedro was flying on top of the world, when suddenly… his first view of that towering monarch… ACONCAGUA! So this was the big bully they warned him about. But he didn’t scare Pedro, though. No sirree.”
and
“When suddenly… ACONCAGUA! Its rocky snow-filled crags form the face of a leering monster… all those warnings came back to him now… the treacherous cross-currents… the sudden storms!”
In the film, Aconcagua is depicted as fierce and vengeful… a dark, angry menace who pours down freezing rain, hurls lightning bolts, and blows winds of devastation… yet Pedro prevails! We’re hoping for this kind of storybook ending.
From the Aconcagua wiki entry, only 60% of those that attempt actually summit. However, it should be noted that RMI Guides have had 100% expedition success on Aconcagua for the 2011-2012 season! Our man is in good hands!