Rob’s guides: JJ Justman (lead) & Geoff Schellens

This is Rob’s second climb with RMI lead guide JJ Justman. They successfully summited Mt Elbrus together this past summer.

About JJ from RMI Guides

JJ Justman has been a Professional Mountain Guide since 1995 and began working with RMI in 1998. Since then, he has developed a passion for guiding climbers on the world’s highest peaks from South America to Nepal. JJ will always claim his second home as Mendoza, Argentina where he has guided over 15 expeditions on Aconcagua and continues to perfect his Argentine Tango. However, JJ will always be found on Mount Rainier, his favorite mountain all summer long.

  • 188+ summits of Mount Rainier (14,410′)
  • 4 expeditions to Mt. McKinley (20,320′)
  • 3 expeditions to Mt. Everest (29,035′)
  • 1 expedition to Dhaulagiri (26,794′)
  • 1 expedition to Manaslu (26,781′)
  • 1 expedition to Broad Peak (26,400′)
  • 1 expedition to K2 (28,250′)
  • 1 expedition to Cho Oyu (26,900′)
  • 16 expeditions to Aconcagua (23,000′), 14 summits
  • 7 expeditions to Ecuador: Cotapaxi and Cayambe
  • 1 summit of Chimborazo
    Mexico Volcanoes: 4 expeditions of Pico de Orizaba, 2 expeditions of Ixtaccihuatl
  • 1 expedition to Bolivia, Huayna Potosi and Illiamani
  • 1 expedition to Illiniza Sur and Illiniza Norte
  • 2 expeditions to Mt. Elbrus, Russia
  • 1 expedition to Kilimanjaro, Africa
  • 3 winter ascents of Mt. Whitney, CA
  • Numerous ascents of selected North Cascade Peaks

JJ’s supporting guide is Geoff Schellens who is making his 3rd expedition up Aconcagua this trip.

About Geoff from RMI Guides

Geoff Schellens grew up in Norwich,Vermont, where his introduction to climbing at the age of 14 led him to develop a strong connection with the outdoors and the local Green Mountains. Pursuing this passion, Geoff attained his undergraduate degree from Prescott College, where he studied Adventure Education with an emphasis on rock and alpine climbing, and minored in environmental studies and photography. Following work as an instructor for Outward Bound and a season rock guiding in Acadia, Maine, Geoff began guiding for RMI in 2009 where he is currently a Lead Guide. He is also a certified Rock Guide by the American Mountain Guides Association. Above his ascents with RMI to Alaska, Mexico, Ecuador, and Argentina, Geoff has recently returned from an expedition to Tibet with fellow RMI guides where he summited Shisha Pangma – one of the world’s fourteen 8000m+ peaks. When not climbing, Geoff enjoys skiing, biking, and traveling.

Day 3: Tents Pitched at Los Penitentes

Rob left his first voicemail dispatch and a Christmas greeting. They had just set-up their tents in Los Penitentes. The journey upwards begins!

Day 3: We depart from the hotel and head to the permit office to obtain the climbing permits for our expedition. With our climbing permits secured, we depart Mendoza and head west towards Aconcagua. We drive out of the fertile wine country and into the mountains, reaching Los Penitentes at 9,000′. Los Penitentes is the center of activity for climbers heading up the mountain and it is here that we finalize our preparations for the expedition. Overnight in Los Penitentes.* Wednesday, December 5th, 2012


click to view in google maps

* Itinerary summary from RMI Guides

“Climb Roberto, Climb!”

Rob flew this route today. He had a tremendous opportunity to view the peak out the port side window of his aircraft.

Check out this completely relevant excerpt from the 1942 Disney feature “Saludos Amigos”. Pedro is a determined mail plane who crosses the Andes from Santiago, Chile to Mendoza, Argentina past a terrifying depiction of Aconcagua.

The script is awesome:

“Pedro was flying on top of the world, when suddenly… his first view of that towering monarch… ACONCAGUA! So this was the big bully they warned him about. But he didn’t scare Pedro, though. No sirree.”

and

“When suddenly… ACONCAGUA! Its rocky snow-filled crags form the face of a leering monster… all those warnings came back to him now… the treacherous cross-currents… the sudden storms!”

In the film, Aconcagua is depicted as fierce and vengeful… a dark, angry menace who pours down freezing rain, hurls lightning bolts, and blows winds of devastation… yet Pedro prevails! We’re hoping for this kind of storybook ending.

From the Aconcagua wiki entry, only 60% of those that attempt actually summit. However, it should be noted that RMI Guides have had 100% expedition success on Aconcagua for the 2011-2012 season! Our man is in good hands!

Day 2: Arrival in Mendoza, Argentina

Here is this evening’s brief phone interview with Rob after his arrival in Argentina. Unfortunately, the call ends abruptly after 1.5 minutes. We will probably just let future phone calls go directly to voicemail so Rob can post a true dispatch (Dad, if you’re reading this… that’s the plan!).


He also got a call into Clay, who reported, “Just talked to him. He’s in Mendoza, flew all night, is exhausted. They went out to eat at an argentine restaurant. 6 other climbers, all guys, all great. He’s going to the room to go to bed…totally exhausted.”

Day 2: Upon arrival in Mendoza, we are picked up at the airport and transferred to our hotel. After checking into your room, time is available to explore the city and its many beautiful parks, or simply relax by the pool. At 5:00 pm in the hotel lobby we gather for our first team meeting. Overnight in Mendoza.* Tuesday, December 4th, 2012

* Itinerary summary from RMI Guides

Day 1: Rob Flies South for the Winter

Robert (aka Dad) left the warm West Texas prairie yesterday to summit the highest peak in South America… Aconcagua! Ryan did a short phone interview with Rob before he boarded the plane to Santiago, Chile.

Day 1: Depart U.S.A. Travel to Mendoza, Argentina (MDZ) typically takes 18 – 27 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times.* Monday, December 3rd, 2012

* Itinerary summary from RMI Guides